30 shades of red

Red is a rare colour in graveyards. The shade of life, blood, pain and hate. Graveyards have none of that. They are grey or black, they are death and decay. Grave. And still, there are spots of red if one cares to look closely. Light feathery red, deep heavy red, alarmingly radiant red. Red is... Continue Reading →

from dusk till dawn

For me, churchyards have an unfathomable attraction at any time. In fact, the attraction intensifies with the passing of time and it changes with time: time of the year or time of the day. Graveyards are essentially about time - time lost and time eternal. The beautiful and cold stillness of winter is thought inspiring.... Continue Reading →

hill of the angels

It seems appropriate to go upwards, along a narrow winding path, all the way towards the top of the hill that is known as the Hill of the Angels or Cnoc nan Aingeal, Knochan. It is an old burial ground near the beautifully set parish church of Kirkton, overlooking the Sound of Sleat and the... Continue Reading →

no chivalry, no sanctuary, no mercy

They had in fact every reason to feel safe: they were women, they all belonged to the royal family of Scotland and they had found shelter in a wee chapel dedicated to Saint Duthac, the patron Saint of Tain, a holy man very much revered in medieval Scotland. But they were not safe, not safe... Continue Reading →

nevermore

It was one of these late summer days when Scotland feels the coldest: a grey drizzle spread across the country and brought a chill to the bones. Night-time was near and it felt far from reasonable to get out of the car and take pictures of the graveyard in Ardersier. But there it had turned... Continue Reading →

Fort George

Cold, red sandstone against the pale blue water of the Moray Firth: Fort George. Mighty resting place, where the walls tower massively over a vast star-shaped ground. At the back of the promontory, close to the sea, is the garrison’s chapel. It commemorates the dead of the past as well as the present.   Fort... Continue Reading →

graveyard of the kings

If ever there was holy ground, it surely is to be found on a small island of striking beauty and breathtaking light in the Ross of Mull: Iona, burial-place of the kings. To many Iona is an overcoming experience. It was here that Christianity made its way into Scotland. Irish monasteries have existed for centuries... Continue Reading →

alleged grave

The story of Rob Roy MacGregor is well known in Scotland, it is part of the old lore, history and childhood. A man who had joined the Jacobite Rising at the age of 18 and was badly wounded in the battle of Glen Shiel 1719. He was a fighter and a cattleman, selling rich Lowlanders... Continue Reading →

go west

Yet still the blood is strong, the heart is Highland, And we in dreams behold the Hebrides: (Canadian Boat Song) Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull. It looks west, towards Canada, whose Calgary took the name from the one on Mull. And it took the people, who used to live here. Like human waves going out... Continue Reading →

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